Tuesday, February 6, 2007

Ask Antonio

Hello Everyone!

I am excited to offer a place for my clients and future clients to view my weekly happenings in the salon as well as updated information, photos and some of my favorite links.

You are more than welcome to join in on my discussions. If you have any beauty challenges, please feel free to post your questions or comments, and I will be more than happy to answer them.



marc said...

Yeaaaa! looks fab! we'll talk soon :]

Barbara said...

Hi Anthony,

I'm excited to read/see your blog & pics - thanks for starting this!

I have baby fine straight dark blond hair that is a little longer than shoulder length. I want to keep it long so I can have more styling options & I would like to learn to do various updos, but I think I need help with this. No matter what I do, it seems to be uncooperative, i.e., if I put product in it, my hair sometimes looks too wet or greasy, which is obviously not acceptable! Any help you have to offer would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Lioness with mane in need of taming

joseph said...

arite nice profile, im trini to

antonio gonzales said...

Hi Babara,

Thank you so much for your question,this is a challange I see in the salon at least once a week and yes the options are endless.
First the tools..

Thickining/volumising shampoo (bumble and bumble,kerastase,paul mitchell)

Light conditioner, maybe a spray no cream. (bumble and bumble,biolage)

volumising mousse, thickining spray. (paul mitchell, Kerastase, Bumble and bumble,redken)

Small round brush,remember the bigger the brush less curl the smaller the brush more curl (wooden with boar bristles)

Great dryer with nozzle and hair clips

Velcro rollers and a can of hair powder that matches your hair color. (Bumble and bumble)

You may already have most of these products and if you don't a salon or beauty supply will have the tools you need.I will focus on using the conditioners on the ends of your hair staying away from the roots, then apply your styling product from roots to ends. Pre- dry your hair a little by using fingers in an upward direction and gently remove moisture (if curly and frizzy stay away from pre-drying) ,then always working in sections with clips dry the hair ,as you complete a section place a small roller.Continue through out and allow to simmer for 15 minutes (sounds like cooking eh) Just kidding,leave rollers in and then spray with a light hair spray,my favorite's are Does it all from Bumble and bumble or Shaper by Sebastian.Hot rollers are amazing,sometimes I dry the entire head then set the hair rollers,don't worry about it being too drying for the hair,that's why you always use contitoners, the heat will steam most of it off.A great brand of hot rollers you can get is Conair Ion Shine.Remove rollers and a lean forward and lightly spray with hair spray or hair powder.Before creating your desired look tease the crown a little or back comb which ever sounds right,then you can work from a pony tail on the lower half of the head in the back leaving out the front from ear to ear,after the pony tail is in then include the front by wrapping the front ends around the base of the tail and creating a bun or twist or you can take the entire back and do a great twist with attractive clips etc.
It's important to have well set or polished hair to start any updo, or else it look's like no loving was put into it. And about the hair powders,they can be used 2-3 days after shampooing to lift oils off of the scalp on any hair type and it gives volume.

I hope this was helpful,please share with friends and keep asking questions.


antonio gonzales said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
antonio gonzales said...

Hey joseph,

Thanks for looking me up,where in Trini are you from?

Kathy said...

Hi Antonio, Now I can finally see who I've been "talking" to. I hope you don't mind if I post this here. Julyne, one of you clients, asked you if you could help me cover my resistant grays. You said to use Goldwell color. I got a chart of Goldwell's Topchic colors. I found a place to buy the colors online, but I'm confused as to which colors to get and how much of each to mix. I know I need to use one in the NN series, but I'm sure I need to mix another color in. Do you think you could help me figure this out. Thanks! Kathy
"Too young to be Gray" :)

Kristen said...

Love the site babe! The one and only man in NY who makes women's hair look phenomenal SHOULD have his own blog! See you in 2 weeks for my glaze..... Kisses.

- Kristen

antonio gonzales said...

Hi Kathy,
Great to hear fro you, Its so difficult to help with color formulas without knowing what your natural hair color is or what is your desired color,but I can give some helpful tips.
Hair color
Developer 20 volume
Plastic bowl and brush
protective cream for your skin

Yes the NN series is better for covering hard to cover gray hair,get the color chart and look at the numbers between 2 (the darkest) to 12 (the lightest),choose which color you think is is closer to your natural color, are you wanting your natural color back?
So if your natural color is level 7 I would get a tube of 7NN,7G and 6G, then you would use 3/4 7NN,1/4 7G and a squirt 6g 6G with equal amount developer (20 volume),
The NN will give grey coverage, the g will add a little warmth thats is needed to replace any warm pigment that was lost from the gray hair,and a hint of 6G will keep it rich or deep enough. It maybe helpful to go to a salon and ask for a color consultation ( are generally free) and see a color chart,that way its easy to decide what level you are,and if you are a level 5 then change the numbers to suit adding a squirt of 4Gl color chart t of .Get the color chart and find a color first by number and name and feel free to write me.


Apply to roots for 1/2 hour, if your ends are needing color mix equal amount of shampoo with the color and apply to ends for 15.If ends are not dark enough add more color to shampoo (same formula as roots).
Good luck,write soon,share with friends and have a great weekend.


Anonymous said...

Hi Antonio,

I'm a silver fox & only shampoo my hair once a week as it's thick & coarse. It's always best the day before I shampoo as the natural oils seem to tame it & make it look smoother & less flyaway.

Having white hair is a complex problem as I'd love to shampoo at least every other day to keep it fresh & bright looking but if I do that...it's completely unmanageable. Sometimes I just let it dry naturally & other times I blow-dry it first on warm & then finish with cold to seal the cuticle.

What's your view of this & what products should I be using i.e. shampoo, conditioner, styling lotion, hairspray.

I really need your help. Thanks in advance :-)

Anonymous said...

Hi Antonio, Thank you for the instructions you wrote for using the Goldwell color on my resistant grays. I've been busy and haven't had a chance to do my hair or even get the color yet. It's a little confusing. I have the Goldwell Topchic color chart in front of me. First, my natural color is dark brown, with a lot of gray. But, I have it colored a medium goldish blonde, but with stripes of gray that don't pick up any color. I'd like to have it light to medium honey/gold blonde. My hair has a tendency to pick up red which I don't really like. So, I'm thinking to start with either 8NN or 9NN. It's really hard to pick a color! I think I'd like something like 9GN, Tourmaline, if it's not too dark. Can you advise me what to get to make my hair this color,or maybe a tiny bit lighter, and how much to mix together? Also, do I have to use Goldwell developer? Thank you so much Antonio! Kathy

antonio gonzales said...

Dear Silver Fox,

Thanks for asking a great question. Your hair sounds beautiful, and you are fortunate to be able to wear it natural. Yes, I agree it can be a bit complex, but you have the right idea and attitude towards handling it. Just remember that natural oils are your best friend! We can create a healthy feel and sheen to your hair by using the right products and still allow you the option of shampooing every other day or once a week.

First, try rinsing your hair by the second or third day instead of shampooing. This allows you to save the natural oils on the hair without stripping the hair or leaving it too clean. If you decide to shampoo every other day, I would recommend using a shampoo that’s gentle yet with enough cleansing power.
I highly recommend Bumble & Bumble Violet Shampoo and Conditioner which will help remove any brassy tones in the hair that result from medication, smoke, product buildup etc. I have used several shampoos for white hair like ARTec Color Shampoos and Shimmer Lights (which can be found in many beauty supply stores).
Bumble is still my favorite because the conditioner contains violet pigment. It will allow you to maintain the brightness of your hair longer. Be sure to alternate with another shampoo to focus on the coarseness of your hair like Age Recharge Shampoo by Kèrastase or the Bain Satin 3 (shampoo) by Kèrastase. These products will both help restore luster that is lost in the hair (due to the loss of pigment) as well as help maintain a healthy PH balance of the scalp.

Of course it would be ideal to not use product at all times, the reality is if we do not use product we will get one result, the hair will do what it’s meant to and react the way it should to things like dryness, humidity etc. After shampooing I would spray a little Bumble & Bumble Tonic Spray which contains tea tree oil. This is a great base for any styling product.
I would then follow with a product that will help control the coarseness of your hair while adding moisture. If your hair is short, I would recommend Bumble & Bumble Grooming Crème and Nacre (a styling wax) by Kèrastase. The Grooming Crème is a great product for re-hydration and taming the hair, while the Nacre will give you that extra hold for style. Do not worry; Nacre is a light wax which can easily be rinsed from the hair.

If the hair is longer and you would like to air dry, start with the Tonic lotion again followed by a little Lait Nutri-Sculpt by Kèrastase. This is a creamy smoothing lotion that will hydrate and assist in taming the coarseness. On the other hand, if you prefer to blow dry the hair use Tonic Spray then Lait Nutri-Sculpt which will protect from the heat while taming the coarseness. Finish the hair by smoothing in a little Lumière (Kèrastase). It's a great product for lightly polishing the hair and great for dry ends.

I hope this is helpful,it's so difficult not being able to feel and see the hair but I know you will find these hints helpful.


Bumble & Bumble
• Violet Shampoo and Conditioner
• Tonic Spray
• Grooming Crème
• Age Recharge Shampoo
• Bain Satin 3
• Nacre
• Lait Nutri-Sculpt
• Lumière

ARTec Color Shampoos
Shimmer Lights

Visit the salon website and you can purchase these products.

Thank you soooo much for writing.


antonio gonzales said...

Hi Kathy,

I will first advice you to go to a salon with all the info I have given you,this is a problem we see in the salon every day,really!
The level you are wanting,your re-growth and your remaining color is tricky to work with,but I will gladly share more info with you. I am sure your hair will always have reddish tones especially the root area,this is because or the natural dark brown pigment and the level you want to achieve.
Use 30-ml of 9nn,15-ml of 9p (to help from being to warm ) and 10 ml of 9gn and 50-ml Goldwell developer ,only Goldwell! The ends I would use 15-ml of 9nn,15-ml of 9gn and 20-ml of shampoo and leave on the ends for 10 to 15 minutes.
MY gut feeling is for you to go to a Salon and if you like have the stylist call my salon and ask for me and I could give some ideas since we speak the same language,I would hate to create a problem for you.
Thank you for your questions,feel free to write as often as you wish and good luck


kathyms said...

Hi Antonio, I have an appointment next Friday at my salon. The problem is I live in a small town in Pennsylvania and the salon is tiny. There are only two stylists, and they don't use Goldwell, they use Wella Color Charm. The owner said she can't buy more expensive color for just one person, me! I'm going to bring a copy of your instructions, but I don't know if they'll do it for me. If not, I'll try to get the colors online and do it myself. I used to live in NY, I wish I still did! I'm only a couple hours away, and I'd sure love for you to do my hair! Thanks so much Antonio, Kathy

doreen said...

dear antonio,

i can't believe you actually brought my hair to a beautiful brown - from inky black! - something that EVERYBODY said was impossible! the subtle highlights throughout have blended beautifully and whatever you did post color (condition? glaze?) has actually left my hair soft and shiny....i LOVE the color and may finally., happliy, abandon my dream of one day going blonde! xx

antonio gonzales said...

Hi Doreen

I am so happy you love your color and thank you for trusting me with your beautiful hair.


Andrea said...

Hi Antonio!
Love this blog and know in time, it will be really hot!
Ok..let me try to give you my problem..in hairdresser lingo. I am about 60% early gray. Ugh! I put Compliments tube color ( 7N a drop of 8G )on it sometimes or if I'm in a rush grab a box of L'Oreal Medium Natural Blonde..yikes..they are so drab and neutral. I want about a level 71/2 buttery blonde. I want to switch to the Goldwell. What formula would you recommend? I can't stand gold... but I need it for contrast. I am not sure how to do the Goldwell. Is it comparatible to Compliments? I hear the TopChic is great... Do you know an online site I can order from? Thanks! Andrea

Kathy said...

Hi Antonio, Don't know if you remember, but I wrote you back in April about trying to cover my resistant gray hairs. I finally got around to buying the Goldwell products you suggested and took them to my hairdresser yesterday. She did my hair as you instructed, but my resistant grays still didn't get covered! Help, I don't know what else I can do, and I'm not ready to go gray. There has to be another way to cover them. :) Kathy

Anonymous said...

Hi Antonio,

I was given a formular for Topchic:
25cc 6NN, 25cc 7G, 10cc 4G. 60cc 6% 20 V Devl. by a friend in annother state. I had medium Brown color when I was young, now I am gray. My hair stylist used Matrix med brown & did a foil. I could no longer afford to foil. My hair has looked awful because she will only do the roots. I decided to try to do it myself. Does this formular sound reasonable? My friend said leave it on 30 min & then comb the color through for 5 min. Also how do I measure the color to get the right ratio? It is in tubes.
Thank You Antonio.


Anonymous said...

I have hair that Im trying to get to look like Jessica Alba's current color..I have very similar coloring but Latina...can you tell me what formula i can use with the Goldwell...My natural root level is 2/3 with 10-25%...I get these god awful ones that are so resistant in the root area. What formula would you suggest? I have yet to find a salon to acheive this color w/o getting brassy.
Also in the summer I would love to acheive Nicole Ritchie's haircolor what would you suggest? Im trying to get to that level eventually.

The last time I went they used 1/2 oz 6NN 1/2 oz 7A and 20 volume developer ..then bleach for the highlights..and 7A with 10 volume as a toner to kill brassiness..pretty but not light enough.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Anonymous said...

Hi Antonio,this is Carol thank you for helping me take care of my hair as a woman of colour I have damage my hair with hard color's and hotiron comb, the products you use on my hair and told me what to do help me so much,thank you for helping me with my problem hair.

RR said...

Hi Antonio
I have very dark hair (naturally) - a brown/black. I have some grey that needs to be covered. I find that whatever I get done, always leaves me with a very very dark brown (almost black). I'm not willing to get it all stripped out so have just gotten used to sticking to the dark. Currently I have Color Charm/Wella 3N in my hair and would like to achieve a warm medium brown that is on the darker natural side (but not the black I always seem to end up with!). Could you give me any suggestions as to what to do using a Goldwell formula?

kit said...

i have used what i think is 7N hair color, i dont know if it is matrix but i would like to go to a new salon and dont know if i have the right number hair color......

Barbara said...

Hi Anthony. I am so grateful for your site. Thank you. I have printed out all your advice for future reference. Can you tell me where I can find a Goldwell color chart on-line that shows the actual colors of each. An amateur can hardly know what 6N or 8BN means. Thanks so much.

antonio said...

You are so welcome!! After much searching the only place that will sell to a non-professional is ebay!!


I hope this helps?


Michelle said...

Hi Antonio,

I've enjoyed reading these and have a question of my own.
Currently I use 6NN & 6NP in equal amounts to cover my grey. I've had great success with this combo. I would like to make my dark brown hair a little more chocolate warm brown. Can you please suggest what would be helpful? Thank you so very much!