Wednesday, November 19, 2008

DO YOU NEED BLOND REHAB?

Today I was asked a question about blonds from a client who is a brunette and it really had me thinking for a while. The question was why are there so many bad blond colors walking around? She quickly presented an answer, her sister has brassy blond hair and it's because she does not have the money to spend on her hair. I thought about her comment and her sister's crisis for a while and this prompted me to write down my thoughts for you.

WHAT IS TOO CHEAP FOR HIGH LIGHTS?

I feel that $100 is too little to get great results, especially in New York City. Don't get me wrong. There are many talented hair stylists at lower price points, but finding the right one can be challenging. To get great blond color, it takes quality product, skill and time. I am a foil man I love to foil. I love working with Wella's Blonder Bleach, I find it lifts the color gently, while it conditions your hair. I baliage with Loreal's Platinum. Why? It is simply the best product on the market!! If your stylist is not properly skilled, they may not be aware they are cutting corners with inferior products which can dramatically affect the desired result. There are so many tricks of the trade to the perfect blond color and it takes a skillful eye to do the job right. The perfect blond is time consuming but Rome was not built in a day. Be patient and you will find it will be worth the wait. Sometimes it takes a full head of foils or baliage and then a glaze to blend in the roots. If your stylist is a perfectionist like me, they will add a separate glaze for the ends. This process requires me to be present for the entire time to make sure the color is applied properly. Highlights can range in price from $100 to a $1000, but there are many price points in between. Take the time to find the right stylist and make sure during your search you ask the right questions.

HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOU NEED BLOND REHAB?

1) If you look at your blond hair and you see too many tones from beige, light golden, brown low lites and those frosty bits chances are you are sporting a rainbow blond.

2) Orange roots are the tell tale sign of a blond who needs some loving from her colorist. There are so many reasons why roots are a problem for colorists (Even I have had my share). The product and technique you choose to soften the base color will depend on how dark your roots are and the blond you desire. There are many techniques and color brands so find a colorist who is diverse and can offer you options. Some of my favorite recipes are Goldwell, 10A with Pmix and 10 volume, Loreal Dia Color Light Beige with a squirt of Light Golden Blond, Wella Color Touch 10/01 with 10/03, Wella Koleston Perfect 12/01 with 4% peroxide and Alfaparf Color Wear 10/31.


THE SHADE

When having your consultation, be clear on the shade of blond you are seeking. If you are unsure, ask your stylist to help you decide on what would be the best shade for your skin tone. Ask to see the color book and look at some swatches to help you find the right color. There are so many colors of blond used in the salon. Here are a few; cognac, light golden, wheat, ash, caramel, just to name a few.

SKIN TONES


For me, the general rule in choosing the right blond for your skin tone is if you have too much red in your skin then you may want to stay away from gold tones so it won’t highlight the redness in your skin. In this case you may want to work with more beige tones. But this does not mean you are limited to a flat beige tone. You can have a beige glaze mixed with some gold tones just to add a little kick. It’s about finding the fine line between being the right beige-gold mix with out being too beige or too gold. If your skin tone is very pale, you can have multi golden tones with high lights and low lights.

I hope with the tips I have pointed out you are able to get a better sense of knowing when you need to check your self into Blond Rehab.

I wish you great hair!

AFG
Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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steffibabiie said...

So I was wondering if you could help me..
I'm a cosmetology student but I have been coloring hair for a while (generally, never veering further than two levels away from the person's natural color.) However, I've had an itch to make some drastic change to my own hair, and after a bit of research I've decided to bleach it, with a bit of help from a friend.
After a few quick searches I realized Wella's Blondor is hands down the best bleach. Sticking with the Wella brand, one I am familiar with, I picked up Wella's color perfect toner in T11B (lightest beige blonde, as I want to go light blonde, level 9 or possibly 10, but I have pinkish olive skin and I know golden shades look terrible on me.)
So I have the product, but what makes me hesitant is that I've read some places that bleaching can take 2 or maybe 3 applications to get to a pale blonde stage.
I guess I should give you a little background on my hair. First, I haven't dyed it in over 3 years. There's maybe 2 inches left on the ends that have had dye, the rest of my hair is virgin hair, generally smooth and healthy. As for the level, I'd say it's a 4. Possibly a 5.
I know Blondor says it can lift up to 7 levels in a single application, but from your experience, about how long would you suggest leaving the bleach on? I've heard never to leave it on more than an hour, but then I've also read that it can be left on for 2 hours. Also, do you think it will be possible for me to lighten my hair to a tone-able pale yellow with just one application?
Also there was something else I had read about a 2:1 ratio increasing the lifting potential of the bleach.
Having so much information gets a bit confusing, especially when I have no personal experience with bleaching yet. If you could help me sort this all out, I would really appreciate it!

Thanks,
Stephanie

antonio said...

Stephanie

Thanks for writing, this is a great question. Okay..
Blondor is great so you are on the right track. I would first apply it half inch away from scalp through the ends and allow to process for 10 minuted. Then I would go in and color the root area. The heat from the scalp allows for lighter roots so this way you give the ends a head start. With a great application you may get it at once but chances are you may have to do a second application. You can use Wella developer 20 volume and add some 3o volume as well. Half and half of each should be fine. Cover your head with plastic all the way through the the processing time for the bleach to stay moist and lift well. An hour should get you what you want but you could rinse, re-apply and leave it on for less time for the second application. Where the toner is concerned, can you get color touch? It works great!! Let me know.

Comesse

steffibabiie said...

The bleach worked wonders with only one application. Thank you so much for the advice. :)

And I can get color touch at cosmoprof, which shade would you recommend using? I really want a nearly-platinum color, without going completely white-blonde.

antonio gonzales said...

Yay!! I'm so happy it worked. I would recommend using color touch; 1/4 ounce 10/03 - 1/4 10/01 and 1/2 0/00 (the clear) with 4% peroxide. The 1.9 peroxide may drab it a little. This will give a cool, light beige tone. Not too white. Apply to towel dried hair for 7 minutes.

Good luck!